Southern Comfort
Marsha Fottler dines at the Veranda and shares some salty knowledge
The Veranda restaurant in downtown Fort Myers is the epitome of Southern hospitality. It reminds me of places such as the Commander's Palace in New Orleans, the historic Firehouse in Sacramento, Calif., even the Charlotte Inn on Martha's Vineyard.
The building consists of two homes that once belonged to the Manuel Gonzalez family and were joined in the 1960s. Paul Peden purchased the buildings in 1978 and made them the Veranda. He still owns the restaurant. Besides the main dining rooms and the piano bar, guests can eat in the courtyard, which has a pretty goldfish pond and waterfall nestled in the tropical plants and trees.
Expect a formal place setting at tables or banquettes draped with crisp linens. One of the dining rooms features a double-hearth fireplace with a mounted deer head above. Marble-topped buffets and sideboards, table lamps and an eclectic range of artwork give the Veranda a comfortable residential feel. Patterned carpet, chandeliers, pretty wall sconces and fabric-padded chairs add up to Southern-Victorian elegance. The Veranda menu plays to its Southern roots but is not limited to south of the Mason-Dixon Line specialties. That means in addition to Bourbon Street fillet or fried-green-tomato salad, Florida crab cakes (with black bean relish), Cajun sea scallops, grit cakes or Cajun chicken, you can sample Chateaubriand, veal picatta, New Zealand lamb, escargot, herb-crusted grilled salmon and other continental dishes.
On Friday and Saturday nights chef William Murray makes roast prime rib served with horseradish sauce. Absolutely wonderful, just fatty and juicy enough to make it fully flavorful and never overcooked. It was my choice on our last official visit.
A dinner entrée includes the house salad and fresh bread along with mini corn muffins and a ramekin of Southern pepper jelly. All dinners arrive with an appropriate side such as potato, pasta or rice, and a vegetable. The kitchen is lovely about making small substitutions such as swapping out a starch. Additionally, the chef makes a daily vegetarian special. Entrees average $28, and portions are substantial.
The wine list covers the bases for European and South American labels as well as Californian. Although you can spend up to $320 a bottle, it's easy to drink well for about $35. Many wines are available by the glass, which is a good way to go if you want to pair different wines with appetizer, entrée and dessert. Desserts are lavish and gorgeously presented, from the warm pecan praline tart (my favorite) to the triple-layer chocolate pâté with raspberry coulis to the Baileys Irish Cream cheesecake or fresh berries with cream.
And that goes for the flawless service, too. When our table of four ordered two appetizers to split, our waiter considerately portioned them out in the kitchen and brought out four plates. Silverware is exchanged at the end of each course, and dishes are correctly presented and correctly removed. No one hovers or engages in long chats with the guests. Guests' needs are anticipated and fulfilled discreetly. You couldn't ask for more.
